With Austria’s state railway revamping its night train network, our writer ponders the future of travel in Europe on one of its Nightjet sleeper cars
I wake in the pre-dawn light – still inky blue in the compartment. I lie there, feeling the train rock beneath me and then push up the window blind with a foot. I’m rolling through misty flatlands. The landscape spooling past. Austria.
Last night I was in Cologne. A wonderfully eccentric brass band was playing carols in the station entrance, and the gothic beast of the cathedral seemed to be listening, peering through the roof like an intrigued T-rex.