Bar Martha, Tokyo, where the customer isn’t always right

Listen, don’t talk. And remember, the man behind the decks does not take requests. Follow these simple edicts and you’ll thoroughly enjoy this idiosyncratic bar

There are few places in Tokyo as polarising as Bar Martha. Online reviews congregate heavily around both ends of the scale and, depending which you listen to, it is either the “worst experience in Tokyo” or “brilliantly unapologetic” and “coolest place in the city”.

This is no accident – few things are at this bar. Rather it is the product of the take-no-prisoners attitude of the bar’s owner, Wataru Fukuyama, a 56-year-old visionary or tyrant, according to your take on him.

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