The new Pyrenean trail is the first to link Andorra’s four manned refuges, a lung-busting, mountainous loop around the principality
On my second night in the mountains of Andorra, in a well-hidden hut where the bunk beds are stacked three tall, my dinner was a plate of cheesy pasta. It was plonked without fanfare on to the old wooden table in front of me. The wine was decanted from a battered carafe by a French hiker who had just woken up. But I wolfed the pasta down before you could say “independent principality”, and did the same with the second helping. I bear no shame in saying it was a meal fit for the gods.