Croatia’s quiet side: the Neretva delta

Less than two hours from packed Dubrovnik, a peaceful riverside area perfect for cycling, swimming and boat trips lies waiting to be explored

It’s 6pm on a Saturday in Opuzen, and I’ve just ordered my second £1 beer. Around me, the sunset is turning the off-white marble of the village’s church and houses a rosé pink. A group of men sit beneath an olive tree sliding drafts around a board, and a ginger cat twirls around a lamp-post.

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