Game changer: touring South Africa by campervan

Avoiding the Garden Route with its boutique hotels, a campervan proves ideal for touring eastern South Africa’s plains, mountains and wildlife parks

At first it looks like a storm cloud on the horizon. On a hilltop, perhaps 500 metres away, dust is erupting in the yellow hues of dawn, shafts of early morning light shooting through, some of them interrupted by a huge, dark nebula. As the bull elephant comes towards us, silhouetted by the sunrise, his intent is clear. In our rear-view mirrors, we see a jeep with a Kruger Park safari guide make a hasty three-point turn. We suddenly feel trapped in our bloated white campervan.

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