The sea off Torbay brims with fish but the British are not big fans. Hoping to tip the scales is Fresh, a new food event later this month
It’s 6am and Brixham fish market is all a-flap with brill and bass, scallop and hake, turbot and lobster. A total of 40 species, and an auctioneer selling them as fast as he can speak. Every morning, up to 50 tonnes are landed at, or freighted into, England’s biggest fishing port by value. I spy a line of crates full of inky blobs: cuttlefish, 96% of which are exported to Italy, Spain and France.