Not sleepy in Seattle: getting to grips with a sports-mad city

Forget Starbucks and grunge, what Seattle really loves is team sports – Seahawks, Mariners and Sounders – though they’re pretty good at coffee, too

By the time I reached Pike Place Market, one of Seattle’s oldest farmer’s markets, overlooking the Puget Sound, it had been closed for two hours. It was my own fault. I’d been in Vancouver earlier in the day, up the Pacific coast, and held up in long queues at the US border. Now the market stalls were shuttered and the vendors had moved on. The fishmongers I’d been told to look out for, men in white aprons who lob about the day’s catch in a kind of market theatre, had long clocked off. It was 8pm on a Tuesday night, and the market had the feel of a neatly abandoned film set.

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