Traditional industry, bargain electronics, hipster wares and some of the city’s best bites make Sham Shui Po an essential Hong Kong stop-off
Sham Shui Po has long been a working-class district of Hong Kong. This humble area hides an intriguing press of markets, shops, stalls, eateries – and, inevitably, a touch of hipster resurgence.
We start our wander with that most Hong Kong of meals: a bowl of noodles. There are very few restaurants in Hong Kong that make their own any more, and there are fewer still that make it the old-fashioned way, by kneading the dough with a bamboo pole. At Lau Sum Kee Noodle (48 Kweilin Street, Sham Shui Po), owner Lau Fat-cheong makes them fresh every day using this technique. He balances on the end of a large bamboo pole, bouncing up and down to knead his springy, al dente noodles. The house specialties are the wonton soup noodles, or noodles tossed with dried shrimp roe.