Harlem’s renaissance: how art, food and history are shaping its latest evolution

The Harlem EatUp! food festival starts on 14 May – just one opportunity residents and enthusiastic newcomers have to celebrate and develop the culture of this historic New York district

It was after midnight on a Wednesday and Paris Blues, Harlem’s oldest surviving jazz bar, was standing-room only. The dive has remained, stubbornly, much the way it has since it opened in 1969. There’s neither a cover charge nor fancy cocktails and patrons can help themselves to barbecued chicken and other comfort food for free. In the corner, Samuel Hargress Jr, the 81-year-old owner who lives on the premises, was holding court in a fedora and tweed jacket.

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