‘Weirder than any other landscape’: a wild walk in the Fens

The new Fen Edge Trail gives hikers the chance to wander this ancient, disappearing marshland, which is now being revived thanks to a 50-year project

Feathery reeds rise from dykes, bullrush heads turn to candyfloss in the spring and two red kites soar high on thermals in a blue sky. The only sounds are a skylark’s song, the amorous grunting of hidden toads and the occasional distant drum-drum of a high-speed train.

Beyond stretches a vast plain of hedgeless fields, green and then black, where the plough reveals dark peat soil. There is no sign of the sea but Britain’s newest footpath is a coast path of the future – and the past.

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