On the Levels: cider, crafts and cycling in Somerset

An idyllic few days in the West Country takes in the local tipple, lazy rivers and crafts stretching back to antiquity. Plus 5 more autumn trips

I smell the harvest before we see it – a floral sweetness drifts in the autumn air, while a hint of wood smoke lingers on the nose. I’m on the Somerset Levels, that secret area of wetland bounded by the Mendips, the Quantocks and the Blackdown Hills, and heading to Pass Vale Farm at Burrow Hill, which is a place of pilgrimage for lovers of all things cider. And during September and October, the place is busy.

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