The sleepy town was once home to the food brand that began in 1863 and the industrial landscape is now a world heritage site
If you are lucky enough to reach the tiny Uruguayan town of Carmelo on a summer evening, you can cycle through tranquil vineyards, past lavender bushes and a yellow chapel glowing in the fading sunset to the Italian social club for dinner. Founded in the 1930s, very little has changed since then. Lo Korrea still serves the cheap, hearty food Italian farmers devoured after a day harvesting grapes on Saturday nights and sometimes Sunday lunch. The food is unrepentantly old-fashioned, heavy in cream and sugar, and the prices are, too – just under £12 for wine and three courses. On the evening we went there was a 60th wedding anniversary, with music seeping through a wall into the annex where we ate, and the odd child in a suit or frilly dress, eyes wide with sugar and excitement, wandering through the door.